72 hours in Edinburgh
Adrian Chrzan shares the top bars and restaurants for all budgets and tastes - including what to watch out for - as well as a glowing review of Aberfeldy Distillery up in the rugged but romantic Scottish Highlands.
Nestled in the historic and picturesque landscapes of Scotland's capital Edinburgh, a vibrant and diverse gastronomic scene awaits, rich in cultural heritage and bursting with flavor. From the stone streets of the Old Town in Edinburgh to the venerable townhouses of Leith, this city offers a treasure trove of culinary delights just waiting to be uncovered.
During our 72-hour The Cocktail Balance team trip we experienced Edinburgh's eclectic mix of traditional Scottish fare and cutting-edge contemporary cuisine. We dived into hidden gems and iconic establishments, uncovered the fascinating stories behind local bars and pubs, and savored unique food adventures that truly capture the essence of Edinburgh thanks to our host Iain McPherson. Whether you're a foodie/cocktail lover on the hunt for new tastes or a traveler seeking the best spots to eat and drink, there's something here to excite your palate and spark your culinary curiosity.
Transportation & Accommodation
Edinburgh offers a variety of transportation options, including taxis and buses from the airport to the city. When in Edinburgh, we mostly used the Uber app since it's more convenient than hailing a taxi on the street. Walking is also a great way to get around the city as everything is within a 40 minute saunter, and the views are worth the effort. Additionally, Edinburgh feels very safe.
During our stay, we stayed at Hotel Voco - Royal Terrace, located just behind the famous Calton Hill, offering a beautiful panorama of Leith and the port. The hotel has a lovely garden where you can enjoy your breakfast surrounded by trees and gardens (watch out for seagulls). Edinburgh has many hotels to choose from, so you can find one that fits your preferences and budget. Our recommendation is to find a budget-friendly option near the Old Town for easy access to all the attractions.
A view from Hotel Voco | Source: Adrian Chrzan
Strong bartending community
Edinburgh has a strong and close-knit bartending community, where camaraderie and mutual support are thriving. In this vibrant city, bartenders are not only colleagues but also friends who share a deep passion for mixology and a strong dedication to their craft. The bartending scene here is characterized by a unique sense of unity, where everyone knows and visits each other in their bars and venues. Thanks to our friend Iain, we were able to experience a friendly atmosphere and discover some local gems. Their cooperation is so strong that you can find his shared list of recommended venues on Google Maps.
One of our must-visit spots was Panda & Sons, an awarded speakeasy cocktail bar that's globally recognized. When you enter through the doors disguised as a barbershop, you'll need to wait to be seated before fully enjoying your experience. This unique cocktail bar offers a wide selection of drinks and is led by Iain McPherson, also known as Cocktail Panda, who is the 10th most influential figure in the industry (according to Bar World 100 Most Influential list by Drinks International) & Innovator of the Year (by CLASS Bar Awards). Watching his team work together at such a high level was an experience worth having. The deliciously balanced cocktails, vibrant atmosphere, and unique design will make you feel like you're lost in time.
Another legendary bar that you should definitely visit is Bramble. This venue was recognized in the early announcements of The World’s 50 Best Bars list and still has a lot to offer. The cozy atmosphere, combined with ambient lighting and comfortable seating, convinced us to visit again the next time we're in Edinburgh.
Venturing into a more "crazy" and unique concept, we visited Hoot The Redeemer. If you're a lover of old arcade games, can't resist a slushy or ice cream, and enjoy lively venues for meeting new people, this spot should be at the top of your wishlist. The venue offers a wide selection of beers - crafted and traditional, irresistible slushies, and a unique vibe that caters to younger people who love to enjoy their days and nights out. The entire ceiling is covered with Polaroid pictures and messages from guests.
If you're a fan of authentic Scottish whisky and crafted beers and love experiencing local culture, you should visit Nauticus. This venue features a unique bar made of shells, a great selection of whisky categorized by flavor profiles, and knowledgeable staff. You can take part in blind tastings, sample their own Nauticus whisky with its delightful smokey undertones, and if you're lucky, meet co-owner Kyle Jamieson, who will share interesting stories and guide you through the selection. Nauticus also hosts music nights and has a piano, making it a perfect spot for those who enjoy live music. Just be mindful of the helmets that adorn the walls as decor (old historic diving suits made of metal); they are really sharp and can easily cut your ear - ask me how I know.
What would a visit be without a properly poured Guinness? There are plenty of venues, but Malt & Hops or O’Regans can show you how the local community enjoys their free time. This pub in Leith, not far from the port, and another one in the middle of Old Town are a gem worth visiting.
Colourful kitchen
Edinburgh's kitchen scene offers a genuine mix of flavors, where you can find high-quality food at reasonable prices. This city has earned its reputation as a culinary hub by combining traditional and innovative approaches, resulting in meals that reflect a variety of gastronomic influences. From cozy cafes and bustling bistros to elegant restaurants and quirky street food stalls, Edinburgh has something for every taste and budget. Whether you're a local or a visitor, you're likely to find a dining experience that suits your preferences and wallet. Our recommendation for you is to make a reservation beforehand, as most of these places are reserved for the whole evening.
We were fortunate to experience unique concepts that may be less familiar to tourists but are definitely worth a visit. Each of our visits was about trying everything, so we shared every dish and enjoyed our meals with satisfied bellies. Our first stop was a Michelin guide recommendation - The Little Chartroom - a small bistro hidden on a quaint street with an inconspicuous entrance, offering Michelin-level food. The menu was simple and offered options for everyone, whether carnivore, vegetarian, or vegan. Our recommendation is definitely the mussels, duck, or any fish dish. Prices are reasonable, and the friendly staff will offer warm hospitality and guide you through all the courses with their wine selection.
The next stop was The Palmerston, a bakery/kitchen with a beautiful atmosphere and also one on the Michelin guide list. The space was previously a Starbucks, before that a bank, and before that it belonged to a wealthy townsman, and you can really feel the history breathing there. Following our "shared plates" idea, we went for the best sellers and weren't disappointed. The quality of ingredients, balanced flavors, and decent portions filled our stomachs and brought joy into a very rainy day. If you are there, you should definitely try the pork, bread with butter, mussels, and fish. Don't be afraid to ask the staff for a bottle of champagne - it will perfectly fit as a starter, and you can continue with a tasty selection of wines or spirits.
On the second day, we got into the tequila and mezcal shots vibe, so we decided to have proper Mexican food at Paz Taqueria. The restaurant was small, dark, and cozy, but it was filled with people who had big hearts and friendly smiles. Honestly, their tacos were among the best we've ever had. They were perfectly balanced, juicy, and the portions were rich enough to easily fill our stomachs. For the brave ones, there was a spicy sauce to add some heat to the experience. We tried both the vegetarian and meat tacos, and we can assure you that you won't be disappointed. P.S.: Don't forget to help your stomach digest with a few mezcals to fully experience Mexican cuisine. Oh, and we almost forgot, the prices here are quite reasonable, but don't be greedy because the portions are generous.
Our last stop was at a relatively new concept, Under The Table, which is situated beneath the restaurant The Table. Both concepts belong to the same owner but have different approaches to food and dining. The Table is a sharing concept, where everyone sits together at one table in the middle with the chef in front of them. Under The Table, on the other hand, is more of a classic restaurant designed in a simple Scandinavian style. The professional and friendly staff were always ready to help and showed us proper hospitality. The food was delicious, whether the starters, main courses, or desserts. Everything was beautifully balanced with textures and complex flavors, making it impossible to stop ordering. Every dish is worth trying, and thanks to our companions who helped us order nearly half of the menu, we were able to taste a wide variety. The food was paired with delicious local and European wines, and each sip helped us enjoy every bit of the food even more. One of the last courses was a selection of cheeses, and that's where we lost our self-control and ate the whole plate. Both of them. We can only recommend this venue and don’t forget to make a reservation in advance to ensure you don't miss out on the experience.
Aberfeldy Distillery
Aberfeldy Distillery is a two-hour train ride from Edinburgh and is one of the best distilleries we've ever visited. Situated in the Highlands, surrounded by beautiful nature and mountains, this place embodies the essence of Scotland and showcases why their whisky is among the best in the world. The distillery is strategically located next to the superb natural water source in The Pitilie Burn, whose waters are still used in the production process. The distillery produces around 6 million liters of whisky, with ambitions to increase production even further.
Our visit to the natural water source and the tour through the distillery immersed us in the rich history and aroma of whisky-making. Our guide, Mike McGinty, played a crucial role in making our tour exceptional. His passion for storytelling and expertise in explaining the intricate process behind each dram added depth to our journey through the distillery. As Mike led us through the halls, his enthusiasm was infectious. He shared fascinating anecdotes about Aberfeldy's heritage and provided insights into the craftsmanship that goes into every bottle. From the malting process to the aging barrels, followed by a tasting of selected bottles, Mike's knowledge and genuine love for whisky elevated our understanding and appreciation of the artistry involved.
The distillery is divided into several sections, and we were fortunate to see the new spaces, finished just a few days before our visit. Aberfeldy & Dewar's have followed trends and created an audio-visual experience explaining some of the information in more detail. The tour concluded with a tasting in the special bar, an extraordinary experience. We tried several single malt Aberfeldy whiskies and Dewar’s blended whiskies, tasted special editions, and enjoyed the ambiance of Aberfeldy Distillery. After tasting the 9-year-old edition, of which there were only 1172 bottles, we couldn't resist and had to buy some from the shop. Every visitor receives a 20% discount, making it impossible to resist the allure of all those bottles.
Unlike some larger, more industrial distilleries, Aberfeldy exudes a sense of intimacy and charm that is truly inviting. Perhaps it's the quaint surroundings nestled in the picturesque Perthshire countryside or the genuine hospitality of the people who work there. Whatever the reason, Aberfeldy feels like a home away from home, a place where you can relax and unwind while savoring some of the finest whisky Scotland has to offer. We truly recommend a visit to Aberfeldy Distillery to everyone, whether you're a whisky lover or simply looking for a cozy retreat from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Here, you'll not only have the opportunity to sample some of the most exquisite barrels but also to immerse yourself in the rich history and heritage of whisky-making. And who knows, you might just find yourself falling in love with Aberfeldy's irresistible charm and Scotland as well, just like we did.
